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February 9, 2010
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Wired Ready-to-Wear


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   07.31.03
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Electronic fabric is showing up on museum walls and in art galleries. But you can’t start wearing it yet. As this ScienCentral News video reports, smart fashions will need nanotechnology, the science of making molecules do useful things, to be ready to wear.

Smart Outfits

Electronic textiles are fabrics that are wired to transfer information within a piece of clothing. Right now, you can buy jackets with disc players and controls sewn in—but designers envision e-wear that will heat or cool its wearer, monitor vital signs, and change color on command.

Maggie Orth is co-founder/CEO of International Fashion Machines, a small company in Cambridge, Massachusetts that develops and manufactures e-textiles for art works, interior designs like wall hangings and table cloths, as well as industrial and military uses. Orth trained as a designer at the Rhode Island School of Design, and then earned her Ph.D. at Massachusetts Institute of Technology’s Media Lab, whose Wearable Computing Group came up with the concept of smart clothing about ten years ago.





underside of wired fabric
The underside of Orth's fabric.
The Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum’s National Design Triennial includes a wall hanging that is an example of what Orth calls Electric Plaid™. At first glance, the piece looks like a hand-woven, multicolored textile. The flip side reveals a computer display that can program conductive fibers woven into the textile. On command, the fibers heat and cool the textile’s colors, which are made of inks whose colors respond to temperature. The fibers can be programmed to change the textile’s colors in several sequences, so that different patterns subtly form on the wall hanging.

Orth says her work is of particular interest to the military for what she calls “interactive camouflage.” Her concepts could produce a military uniform wired to change color when a soldier is standing in jungle overgrowth, for example, or against a stone or brick wall. But Orth says that right now, the electronics that control her fabrics’ colors are too bulky to wear. Before smart clothing can be ready to wear, nanotechnology, the science of working at the scale of only a few atoms, must transform electronics.




Since the invention of the transistor at Bell Labs in 1947, electronics have shrunk dramatically, to the size of silicon chips that make Electric Plaid™ change colors. Nanotechnologists dream of replacing today’s chip with semiconducting molecules. At Columbia University’s Nanotechnology Science and Engineering Center, Horst Stormer, Nobel Laureate in Physics, is part of a research team collaborating with Bell Labs and IBM on the next generation of electronics.

Stormer and Columbia chemist Colin Nuckolls are exploring the use of molecules to switch the flow of electrons on and off, as silicon semiconductors do today in Orth’s control panels. So far, the Columbia researchers have made nanoscale electrodes that can “plug in” to molecules and measure electron flow. But, Stormer warns, the dream of molecular transistors—and very smart fashions—is still years away.

Stormer’s work has been published most recently in Physical Review Letters and Science. Nuckolls’ research has appeared in the Journal of the American Chemical Society. Orth’s work was presented most recently at the fall 2002 meeting of the Materials Research Society. Electric Plaid™ is on view at the Cooper Hewitt through January 25, 2004.

Stormer and Nuckolls’ research is underwritten by the National Science Foundation and the New York State Office of Science, Technology, and Academic Research. Orth’s work is supported by International Fashion Machines.


 
       email to a friend by Ann Marie Cunningham
               
     


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